THE BEAUTY OF WESTERN UGANDA

It was wonderment as the sun shone bright on the tarmac. The wind was cool and smooth like silk as it brushed the skin on my left arm which rested on the car window. I pressed my face towards it to breathe it all in, it was so refreshing. Rich Banana plantations flew past as we sped through the outskirts of Mbarara city. Farms lay gazette, gentle long horned cows grazing under the dappled sky. I felt excitement rise from within and I pumped my fists in the air. I couldn’t wait for what lay ahead.

We made a stop in the town of Ntungamo. It buzzed with natural and organic life. Vendors selling a range of food stuffs. By the packaging, I could tell that the foods were fresh and organic, direct from their sources, with no processing or additives whatsoever. Fresh creamy milk in 5litre jerrycans, dark golden thick and creamy honey in transparent jars, local eggs wrapped up in dried banana stems, sweet bananas, cherry red tomatoes, onions. I promised myself that on my way back, I would carry as much as space would allow me, I would incorporate these pure and rich delicacies in my recipes.

As we drove through the countryside, my heart was brimming with awe at the sight. Amid the colorful hills of fields of crops ready for harvesting, the road curved like an undisturbed meander. It stretched onward in circular motions taking each turn in slow strides. I let my eyes wander back to the bottom of the hill, the details were a piece of art that rendered it all the more fascinating, showcasing the beauty and splendor of western Uganda.

The sunset found me at the second deepest lake in Africa, the placid lake Bunyonyi.  overlooking the beautiful hills rising and falling in soft waves. The blue water turned orange was sparkling under the setting sun. One could hear the rustling of leaves and the little birds chirping in the surrounding trees as the cool evening breeze massaged my face evoking an atmosphere of peace and calm. As I breathed in, I could smell the comforting sweet fragrance of the lilies, with their leaves buoyantly spread over the water, I fondly remembered the times when I used to make holiday trips across the lake with my mother to visit grandmother and always had lily flowers plucked out for me.

I strode forward bare soled for the nearest flower, but one step into the water sent needles all over my whole body, the water was freezing cold. I aborted my mission, but I knew I had many days for success. And as I made my way back to the residence, I was elated by the decision made, I knew coming to western Uganda was what I needed. It was going to be a memorable week. The sky was rosy casting an earth real glow over the hills and bidding the day’s adventures farewell in a breathtaking finale.

The next morning, I woke up early feeling refreshed and ready for the beautiful day that lay ahead of me.  After a leisurely breakfast, I decided to take a boat ride on the lake.

As I glided across the calm waters, I took in the breathtaking scenery surrounding me. Local boats crafted out of sturdy Eucalyptus trees could be seen across the water with occupants paddling on either sides of the boats with wooden paddles. They glided effortlessly across the calm surface leaving behind a trail that disturbed the otherwise glassy water. The sun was shining brightly, casting a golden glow over the hills and islands.

In the heart of the lake stands Bwama island, the largest of the 29 islands. We rode around the Island, the boat glided smoothly carrying me on a serene journey round the picturesque island. The island’s emerald, green trees, lively homesteads and structures rose up from the lake’s crystal-clear waters, creating a stunning visual contrast that was short of breath taking. The island is steeped in history as having accommodated the first missionaries in the area and established the first school and health center in the early 20th century. These facilities still served the community.

We passed by the punishment island, also known as “Akampene” one of the smallest islands on the lake. It has a very dark history. Girls who got pregnant before marriage were always brought here to die. The lucky ones however were always saved by the poor men who could not afford dowry. With just one tree and a few lushes surrounding it, one could imagine the despair of those girls after being abandoned by their families to die. It was there that I had a successful mission with the lilies, and I had a fresh bunch of them for myself.

As the sun began to set, we returned to the lake’s shore, feeling grateful for the incredible experiences I’d had that day and back at the residence, I watched the sky turned pink and orange, casting a magical glow over the lake. It had been another unforgettable day, and I knew that I would always treasure the memories of my time here.

I spent the day that followed relaxing journaling and enjoying the scenic views, sounds and fresh air.

I woke up early, feeling refreshed and ready for the next adventure. As we drove through the beautiful terrain, tea plantations stretched across the beautiful hills of Kigezi in the cool climate that dominates all year around. The terrain was steep with hills and narrow valleys that I could understand the secret behind the beauty and strength of our people.

 We set off towards Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, the home to the endangered mountain gorillas.

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest hummed with life all around. Decorated with the overgrown trees of different species, the air smelled of herbs and wildflowers and as we trekked through the dense forest, the sounds of the jungle surrounded us.  Butterflies flew gracefully around the dense forest creating a whirl of color among the thickets. The bright delicate insects radiated a spirit of beauty and wonder.

After hours of trekking, finally the massive, majestic mountain gorillas could be seen in a distance. The demure creatures were so captivating in their emotions and behaviors. The silver back was lying on its side chewing on some vegetation in the cool mid-morning sun. I watched a young one, still unsteady on its legs, as it stumbled and fell after several steps. The mother, immediately rushed to its side, helping it gently with her rough but tender hands and the little gorilla struggled to its feet, shaken but unharmed. Some lazily munched on leaves and shoots while others played in the lush vegetation. I watched in awe as they interacted with each other, their intelligent eyes seeming to convey a deep sense of wisdom.

Our last afternoon was spent at Lake Mburo National Park, known for its great diverse wildlife and beautiful landscapes. The air was filled with the sweet scent of acacia trees and the gentle hum of insects under the hot afternoon sun. A few wispy clouds drifted lazily over the park, providing scant shade from the intense sunlight. Hippos could be seen wallowing in the shallow water with their eyes poking out of the water as they watched the world go by.

We went on a game drive, where I had a spectacular view. A herd of slender athletic impalas fed in the warm sunlight with their reddish-brown coats and white underbellies, grazing peacefully on the tender shoots of grass and leaves. Their large, dark eyes watched us warily, but they seemed undisturbed by our presence. As they fed, the impalas moved in a fluid, synchronized motion, their slender legs and sharp hooves barely making a sound on the soft grass. The sunlight danced across their backs, casting a warm glow over the entire scene.  

Zebras moved across the flat land, their striped coats seeming to shimmer and dance, like a choreographed ballet. Each zebra’s unique pattern, like a fingerprint, told a story of individuality and beauty. The stark contrast between their black and white stripes created an optical illusion, making their bodies appear to shift and ripple.

Time flew past and soon stars began to appear across the clear sky and the moon rose slowly above the horizon and we had to bid farewell to the park’s scenic landscapes and creatures. As we drove, the sounds of the parks wild life provided a soothing melody that reminded me of the unforgettable experiences I had had.

I reflected on the incredible experiences I had had in western Uganda. From the breathtaking natural beauty of Lake Bunyonyi and the demure gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, to the vibrant sights and beauty in the communities, this region is truly blessed. I knew that I would always treasure the memories of this adventure, and I couldn’t wait to share my stories.

AUTHOR: Precious Asiimwe.

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